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		<title>Leaving Adelaide</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Jan 2012 05:26:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[adelaide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[adelaide city council]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[adventure]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[appreciation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[arts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[arts collective]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[big city]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bilbao syndrome]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[career opportunities]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[exodus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[family]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[family-focussed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[format]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[heteronorm]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[heterosexual]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[homosexual]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[leaving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[living]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[love life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[moving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[reasons]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[relationships]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[running away]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[small cities]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sydney]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tourism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wanderlust]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[young people]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/?p=451</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[1. Trying to write about the why of moving cities without the context of secured career opportunities or long-term relationships is hard. Why? Because you start writing down personal theories that fly in the face of old adages about finding happiness no matter where; that you&#8217;ll never escape yourself – &#8216;wherever you are, there you [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=451&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/200471_10150170024730535_533820534_8587779_2851585_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-453" title="Beehive Corner" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/200471_10150170024730535_533820534_8587779_2851585_n.jpg?w=224&#038;h=300" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a></p>
<p><strong>1.</strong></p>
<p>Trying to write about the <em>why </em>of moving cities without the context of secured career opportunities or long-term relationships is hard.</p>
<p>Why? Because you start writing down personal theories that fly in the face of old adages about finding happiness no matter where; that you&#8217;ll never escape yourself – &#8216;wherever you are, there you are&#8217;; and the futileness of &#8216;running away&#8217;.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s tricky to do, without that crisis of motivation, to not sound defamatory and downright arseholery about the place you&#8217;re leaving, either.</p>
<p>It doesn&#8217;t help that many of your friends feel the same way about the city (albeit for subtly different reasons); that some of them write extensively on its entrenched problems; that it&#8217;s a place where one friend can create an excel spreadsheet of the 150 people she&#8217;s known to have left it, not including me and my own list.</p>
<p>It doesn&#8217;t help that it&#8217;s a city that already suffers ridicule (often from second-hand opinion) from the rest of the country. It&#8217;s especially difficult when you&#8217;ve made a pact with yourself not to bad-mouth it when you do move – nor confuse personal objections with generally accepted negative truisms about the place.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m also aware of how much it&#8217;s just a personal decision and who cares what the reasons are, why do I have to make such a big deal of it, anyway? I could just do it and remain mum on the issue: if it is indeed an issue. Why must I scrutinise every move I make?</p>
<p>Because without already secured career opportunities and long-term relationships at stake, people want an answer – and at the moment, all I can come up with is “an adventure”. And that&#8217;s fine if it was an adequate explanation, but adventures usually entail returning &#8216;home&#8217; again. I&#8217;ve gone on several &#8216;adventures&#8217; before, but this is relocating my base, this is severing a tie.</p>
<p align="CENTER">*</p>
<p>“I can&#8217;t believe you&#8217;re still in Adelaide” has been levelled at me more times than I can remember. I usually retort, “That&#8217;s because I&#8217;ve travelled so much, I have left moving interstate until last” &#8211; which is more or less true. When I was seventeen I packed my literary-pleasing bindle and trundled off to live in the UK for a year on a working holiday visa (travelling extensively around the isles and to Germany and Egypt, too). During university I took a month sojourn to China and Malaysia with a mate, and straight after my undergraduate degree I lived in Spain for a year (visiting Portugal and Paris and returning to the UK). Then, in the four years of having an &#8216;adult&#8217; job as an ESL teacher, I took another month out of the year to see Brazil, Uruguay and Argentina, and a further five months taking a round-the-world trip to Japan, the UK (again), Northern Europe, North America, Mexico and bizarrely, the Cayman Islands. Ten years after my first &#8216;adventure&#8217;, I&#8217;ve come to a point where travel for the sake of it seems redundant (unless, you know, it&#8217;s just a holiday – then my bug knows no bounds), and I&#8217;m ready to make something of the accumulated mess of experience I have, gathered in that bindle.</p>
<p>Each time I returned home from those trips, my relationship with Adelaide changed. The first time, I was only eighteen and was keen to start tertiary education on the promise that it would, if anything, increase the likelihood of better paid jobs in the future. I made sure I enjoyed the course, so I did a bachelor of arts in screen studies, drama, and Spanish. Returning from China made me even more adventurous with exploring the migrant side of Adelaide, which is something I&#8217;ve come to really appreciate about all cities in this country. Returning from Spain I had motivation to acquire more applicable work skills and enrolled in a course for teaching English as a second language. Returning from South America made me appreciate the relatively wealthy lifestyle we have and the blank canvas of Australian culture. After this trip I helped form the Format Collective. Each trip away made me value the stability of Adelaide, its relative cheapness to other Australian cities, and the ability I had to save money to leave it again and again. For a long time I was content to just use it as a base to feed my wanderlust, even when that wanderlust was feeding nothing but something to write about later.</p>
<p>I think three things have contributed to changing my tune on this. Firstly, the Format Collective was successful, giving me a whole new skill set (and self-confidence) along with my teaching; secondly, I completed my Masters in creative writing which has made me pursue writing more seriously; and thirdly, I&#8217;m older. I&#8217;ve reached the age where making my life exactly how I want is a desire and nearly achievable. It&#8217;s been ten years since I started continent hopping, and in that time I&#8217;ve made a lot of friends, but my love life has barely blossomed at all.</p>
<p>Gay men I barely know exclaim how they cannot imagine living anywhere smaller than Sydney or Melbourne. They tut at me, like they&#8217;re stylists assessing my choice to wear socks&#8217;n'crocs in public – it&#8217;s just not done; what are you doing still living there (in those!)? However, I&#8217;m sceptical about moving cities for an improved love life because I&#8217;ve seen many friends do it and get sidetracked by more choice (“I feel like a kid in some kind of store!”), and still complain that they&#8217;re lonely. For this reason, I stuck it out in Adelaide telling myself that the right person comes along without having to look for them.</p>
<p>Regardless of sexuality, I know many people have had that experience with the dating pool where you use John West-like scrutiny, end up aware of how tuna fishing isn&#8217;t environmentally sustainable anyhow, and give up. And because you&#8217;ve given up, the next time you do get a nibble, you quickly reel your catch onto the boat and demand that it fillet itself and lay elegantly over some rice, exposed and raw. This is as unfairly compromising as it sounds, and before you know it, that relationship is dead.</p>
<p>So you return to being picky. You make a rule that if you keep focussed on achieving your own aspirations and continue following your interests, then, surely, someone will emerge from the woodwork like the T1000, and gaily skip with you off into the mercurial puddle of the sunset. No one ever comes.</p>
<p>Or they do, but it&#8217;s bad timing; or you&#8217;re always attracted to the transient – those just passing through or living in another place. You then blame yourself for falling for what you can&#8217;t have, before admitting that it was really a subconscious effort to have a reason to leave where you are. Heartbreak is a very good trigger to organise that next trip overseas. You don&#8217;t dare have a rebound fling with someone in Adelaide, so you leave and become the transient in someone else&#8217;s life on the other side of the world.</p>
<p>Some of your friends look at you pityingly like you&#8217;re just a finicky eater, not touching your meal unless all foods are kept separated and don&#8217;t touch each other. If only you could just … “settle” … you&#8217;d see how wonderful it is to be bound with someone, even if they&#8217;re tainted with flecks of broccoli. These friends are missing the point, and are usually heterosexual, with a subscription to heteronorm weekly. They forget that I don&#8217;t have a smorgasbord to choose from, and am usually almost starving – this is statistical. During one of the Format Festivals a friend said to me, “This is such a hipster sex fest” (meaning that many couples were hooking up through and throughout the event). I said, “Really?” raising an eyebrow. He looked at me for a moment and replied, “Oh, yeah. Not for you it&#8217;s not.” It&#8217;s then that you realise that you really are in the wrong place, if following your interests here creates a new dating pool that isolates you even further.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/197541_10150170027525535_533820534_8587865_2614310_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-454" title="Adelaide Skyline" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/197541_10150170027525535_533820534_8587865_2614310_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=224" alt="" width="300" height="224" /></a></p>
<p><strong>2.</strong></p>
<p>What has made me stay in Adelaide for this long is an inability to reconcile these two mindsets:</p>
<ol>
<li>Australia has the population of Taiwan spread over 210 Taiwans in terms of area. Of course Australia only has two important cities (Melbourne and Sydney): pack your bags if you want greater opportunities for work and play, relocate, end of story.</li>
<li>Smaller cities in Australia have populations similar to famous capital cities around the world – and are just as financially prosperous. If people aged 18-35 (I&#8217;m loathe to use the word &#8216;youth&#8217;) stayed in them, they would create the missing jobs and culture that makes that demographic flee in the first place.</li>
</ol>
<p>One is realistic, taking the pressure off oneself to be an instigator of change, and getting on with personal prosperity. The other makes you more accountable: if you can see how you can change a situation, shouldn&#8217;t you feel obliged to change it?</p>
<p>Now that I&#8217;ve decided to leave, I must add that neither of these ideologies operate separately from the other. If you stay in your hometown to help make culture for your peers, that doesn&#8217;t mean that 60% of your peers (statistic based on <a href="http://renewadelaide.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Renew Adelaide</a> founder Ianto Ware&#8217;s research) have suddenly changed their mindset to leave it (remember that excel spreadsheet?). It&#8217;s a Sisyphean task to create sustainable cultural infrastructure for a demographic that&#8217;s predisposed to not staying to enjoy it. And because there are small to no audiences, older, family-focussed types stuck in government bureaucracy aren&#8217;t going to help enable that culture, if they&#8217;re aware of it at all. These types are the ones to quickly add that “a lot” of ex-pats return to Adelaide once they&#8217;re older (post-35): that Adelaide&#8217;s the perfect place to raise a family.</p>
<p>A close friend of mine is 38 years old, a new Australian, well-travelled, and child-free. Not only is a family-focussed (and today this still means heterocentric) city like Adelaide anathema to a young gay person, it has certainly chided my professional non-mom friend, too. If your lifestyle isn&#8217;t based around running kids around the suburbs in a 4WD, there&#8217;s little here to keep you entertained outside opening hours. Opening hours, I might add, that bewilder my students who all come from countries where people expect and enjoy hanging out in a city centre hours after work/study. They recently asked me where all the Australians went after 5pm and I said that in Summer, they would find them at the beach. I added that in Winter, I still have no idea where they go. Winter makes Adelaide resplendent with tumbleweed. Or, as this friend in question once said: “it&#8217;s like one long trip to Bunnings”.</p>
<p align="CENTER">*</p>
<p>For me, the one attitude I think Adelaide needs to change is in its investment in infrastructure for tourists. There&#8217;s a self-defeatist vibe here – a lack of treating the city like it should be visited. I&#8217;m not talking about Bilbao-syndrome here, either. (The perfect example of this comes from another Spanish city, Valencia, which built its City of Arts and Sciences [Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències] to burn its city image into the collective consciousness. Yeah, nup &#8211; you got nothing, either? <a href="http://www.cac.es/" target="_blank">Look it up</a>, it&#8217;s not bad, just a bit reminiscent of other famous buildings.) Adelaide doesn&#8217;t need a white elephant to save it. While Adelaide City Council is making some progress with its <a href="http://pictureadelaide.com.au/" target="_blank">Picture Adelaide</a> scheme, at a governmental level, the city as a whole needs to change its infrastructure to accommodate tourists who don&#8217;t have a car and decades of insider knowledge. The fact we have 50km of uninterrupted metropolitan beaches that aren&#8217;t connected to each other by public transport (except a few meandering bus lines) is a scandal. The fact that there are “hidden gems” of retail and restaurants in the suburbs doesn&#8217;t make Adelaide appealing to those just here for a few days. In my travels, cities that are easy to move around and supply loads of information to the tourist are always fondly remembered. It doesn&#8217;t matter if the city has an &#8216;iconic&#8217; building or not – people remember experiential factors: you spend more time wondering where to eat and how to get somewhere than the hour or two spent in the art gallery. It&#8217;s no good smugly suggesting to a visitor that they just have to look harder. Or to shut down the city centre all but one night of the week (if you want to see &#8216;bleak&#8217;, go to the CBD on a Saturday around 6pm). Shouldn&#8217;t any city, as an entity, be proud to flaunt what it&#8217;s got as much as possible? If tourism means business why keep all the stock out-of-reach?</p>
<p>The other factor that lures people back to a place is being able to find their own subculture visibly interacting with the city, but this doesn&#8217;t have to be sanctioned by government and/or council. The only thing that keeps Adelaide from having this “vibrancy” is that percentage of not-family-orientated people leaving it. So there&#8217;s a problem with that; and I&#8217;m about to contribute to it. But it&#8217;s got to the point where I just don&#8217;t care, at least, I don&#8217;t want to feel responsible for it, anymore.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/208470_10150223940960535_533820534_8782289_2615525_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-455" title="James Place" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/208470_10150223940960535_533820534_8782289_2615525_n.jpg?w=224&#038;h=300" alt="" width="224" height="300" /></a></p>
<p><strong>3.</strong></p>
<p>I&#8217;m sitting the zine shop at the Format venue, trying to write an essay about why I&#8217;m leaving Adelaide. I&#8217;m half-heartedly singing along to the music, when a woman enters saying, “Is this a zine shop?” She stumbled on the shop, but knows what shops like it are&#8230; Intriguing. “I&#8217;m from Portland,” she says. Oh. That explains it.</p>
<p>She flusters around glancing at the stock. She seems agitated. I notice a young boy is with her and he starts playing with the hippopotamus money box on the desk. She starts a conversation in fits and starts, like someone – a traveller – who hasn&#8217;t had a conversation with anyone for a while; though I&#8217;m not sure she cares what I have to say about the arts collective or even in answering my questions about why she&#8217;s in Adelaide.</p>
<p>She replies, “I&#8217;m trying to leave Adelaide actually.” The conversation moves on to me saying that I&#8217;m moving to Sydney and she tells me that she never connected with the place, “Maybe it&#8217;s because my abusive husband is there still,” she says. “It just didn&#8217;t have a culture that I identified with – like, I couldn&#8217;t find any organic supermarkets. Or the ones I did find were for people who have made it their &#8216;lifestyle choice&#8217; to spend too much money on oats.”</p>
<p>We talk about changing attitudes towards paper, plastic, and bringing your own bags, and I mention that Adelaide&#8217;s a weird mix of innovation and conservatism. I tell her about how it was the first state to allow women to vote, to decriminalise homosexuality, to allow religious freedom, and first to ban free plastic bags. She says that while she&#8217;s not closed-minded, she&#8217;s come to find an appreciation for conservatism: “Like, my sister,” she says, “she and her family border on racist and live in a log cabin, but they&#8217;re keeping alive how things used to be. If you&#8217;re in a big city that&#8217;s always changing, then you lose a sense of tradition.” Before I say anything about that, she leaps onto another train of thought, “And like homosexuality. Sometimes I think it&#8217;s better if people stay in the closet. It&#8217;s a much more romantic thing to do. Every gay person doesn&#8217;t need to broadcast it. Like, when a French person has an affair, it&#8217;s more romantic when they don&#8217;t tell anyone about it. People are so quick to make assumptions about you from what you promote to the world.”</p>
<p>I compose my thoughts.</p>
<p>“People knowing that alternatives exist is more important, though,” I say. “At work, most people don&#8217;t know that I&#8217;m gay, and what that does is expose me to more homophobia than if they knew. This is another reason I&#8217;m moving to Sydney. I want to be in a place where people aren&#8217;t so fast to make assumptions about your sexuality and gender role. But yes, I guess I haven&#8217;t told people because I value my privacy, too.” I start an internal monologue and look vague for a bit, while she formulates her next rant.</p>
<p>“I just think that a &#8216;lady of the night&#8217; has the right idea,” she says. “She shares her body but never exposes her -” she pumps her chest with her fist “- soul, you know? She doesn&#8217;t talk about her affairs, because it&#8217;s business, and no one else&#8217;s.”</p>
<p>“I follow a sex worker on Twitter, actually, and -”</p>
<p>“What if I want to take more than one lover? At the same time, even? I&#8217;m not gay, but I don&#8217;t say I&#8217;m straight either. I fall in love with people. I don&#8217;t like all these boxes. People make assumptions about a young mother, and other women get catty because they think I&#8217;m coming onto their men if I talk to them.”</p>
<p>I don&#8217;t have anything much to say to this except “hm”, and start talking to her son, who is playing with some chalk he found.</p>
<p>“And sometimes I just can&#8217;t be bothered with people all together,” she continues.</p>
<p>“I was just writing about that,” I say. “Well, about the cycle of craving lots of company and then feeling like being left alone.”</p>
<p>She starts drawing with the chalk on the floor of the shop with her son.</p>
<p>“So you&#8217;re travelling around Australia?” I ask.</p>
<p>“I&#8217;m looking for a place to settle, actually; I&#8217;ve done too much travelling.”</p>
<p>“And Adelaide&#8217;s not for you? I&#8217;m writing about why I&#8217;m leaving it.”</p>
<p>“It&#8217;s nice, people are friendly, it seems modern and yet older than other cities in Australia,” she says, “but I don&#8217;t know anyone here. I have a friend somewhere else and was thinking that would be easier than starting from scratch.”</p>
<p>“Adelaide&#8217;s a hard place to make new friends,” I say.</p>
<p>“You only need one person to introduce you to someone.”</p>
<p>“Yeah, I have a few friends in Syd -”</p>
<p>“But I end up making enemies easily, so I don&#8217;t know why I worry: I say something stupid and people end up hating me. I think it&#8217;s because as soon as people have expectations of me, I have this overwhelming urge to contradict them.”</p>
<p>“&#8217;You can&#8217;t tell me what to do!&#8217;” I venture a joke. She&#8217;s unmoved. “Actually, I think I have a bit of that in me, too. People have been saying to me for ages that they think I should leave Adelaide. And I have, but to travel around the world. But moving interstate – I always shunned the idea, probably too defiantly. I don&#8217;t know, I got it in my head that if I couldn&#8217;t make something here, then what was the point going somewhere else?”</p>
<p>“But you did make something,” she says. “You grew something here, but now you need a bigger pot to grow more. Australia really only has two cities: Melbourne and Sydney.”</p>
<p>“It&#8217;s complex, though, how smaller Australian cities have this need to feel bigger than they are. Unlike the States,” I say, “Australia is sparsely populated over a lot of land. Geographically, Adelaide is still a centre, of sorts.”</p>
<p>“I think you got frustrated that you couldn&#8217;t make the pot grow bigger with you,” she says.</p>
<p>I murmur agreement and she deals with her son who has exhausted ways to have fun in the shop, and is clearly ready to go.</p>
<p>“Well, let&#8217;s leave on that note, before I say something bad, like I always do.” She backs out the door. I hand her son a gift of chalk. “Nice to meet you,” she says.</p>
<p>“You too, I hope you find somewhere to settle,” I say.</p>
<p>And she, too, leaves.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/378463_10150557587470535_533820534_11024688_1391891518_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-456" title="Alpha Box &amp; Dice, McLaren Vale " src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/378463_10150557587470535_533820534_11024688_1391891518_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=224" alt="" width="300" height="224" /></a></p>
<p><strong>4.</strong></p>
<p>The yellow apatosaurus legs that are the hills of the south, undulate like a rollicking sea frozen in time. The vineyards caress the land like a bed sheet – but are just stick farms in winter. The gulf in the west; the sun dropping into the sea like an egg yolk. The parklands with their possums and cockatoos, galahs, lorikeets, rosellas, magpies, and miners. I go there to run, to walk, to lay on the grass – kept green in summer, when everywhere else it&#8217;s yellow.</p>
<p>The yellow and blue horizontal stretch between Seacliff and Semaphore; many bike rides; this is where smiles are broadest. The tramline: wave as you pass my parents&#8217; house. &#8216;Burbs in the east, pretend you&#8217;re in an English garden; &#8216;burbs in the west, pretend you&#8217;re driving in L.A. New migrants in the inner north, ex-pat Brits in the far-south. Italian Parade, Henley Greek Road. The vertical and the horizontal grid of the CBD. I have learnt to follow desire lines along its disused lanes so I don&#8217;t feel so rigid.</p>
<p>The Central Markets. A hearth.</p>
<p>Running into friends, pretending to not see acquaintances, the &#8216;Adelaide-swivel&#8217;: you turn to check in case that one particular person is sitting in the same cafe as you. You never know. You&#8217;re surprised when you meet someone you&#8217;ve never met before. There are many great people you do meet. You&#8217;ve got a wealth of friends, a strong support, you&#8217;ve grown older together. You wonder why you&#8217;re leaving them: are you really leaving them? You&#8217;ve done it before, but this time feels different. You hope you&#8217;re not running away from friends.</p>
<p align="CENTER">*</p>
<p> I&#8217;m under no illusion that the grass is greener – even though in summer, that&#8217;s very likely true. This dry state has been good to me. My frustrations with it spring only from the potential I see, and the parochial attitude of some of the people making progress slow. But it does change, it is changing. Just for the experience, I would like to be in a city that&#8217;s more global, more fast-paced, with more opportunities in the creative arts sector. I&#8217;d like to live somewhere where many people are from somewhere else: a melting pot – not a city where it&#8217;s common to hear “what high school did you go to?” as a relationship determiner. Admittedly, when I have lived overseas, I&#8217;ve lived in places smaller than Adelaide, so I&#8217;m keen to live in a &#8216;big city&#8217;. I love big cities. I think the imposed anonymity you get in a big city is better suited to me. These days I walk around Adelaide like it&#8217;s my living room. I&#8217;m surprised I put in any effort to not go out wearing my dressing gown sometimes. I know that in Sydney I will hate many things, too, and long for things back in my &#8216;home-town&#8217;. And I suppose Adelaide is my &#8216;home-town&#8217; in many ways, although I have experienced the feeling of returning home in the UK, too. One day, I&#8217;ll feel at home in many other places. That&#8217;s a &#8216;destiny&#8217; of sorts. That&#8217;s who I am. My friends have jokingly (though, very seriously) warned me never to utter the phrase “This place is stifling me!” and I want to make it clear, here, now, that a place is only what people make of it. I&#8217;ve just made what I could from Adelaide, and now it&#8217;s time for a new challenge. An &#8216;adventure&#8217;, I guess I could call it.</p>
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		<title>Anti-Bogan, Anti-Hipster, UnAustralian</title>
		<link>http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2011/11/23/anti-bogan-anti-hipster-unaustralian/</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Nov 2011 22:57:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[&#8220;Eres tú mismo, precisamente cuando no sabes quién eres y ni te importa saberlo.&#8221; &#8211; Alejandro Jodorowsky &#8220;You are yourself, exactly when you don&#8217;t know who you are and you don&#8217;t care to find out.&#8221; (translation by me) * Have you thought about your identity lately? I&#8217;ll tell you what I&#8217;ve been thinking about it. [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=440&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>&#8220;Eres tú mismo, precisamente cuando no sabes quién eres y ni te importa saberlo.&#8221;</em> &#8211; Alejandro Jodorowsky<br />
<em>&#8220;You are yourself, exactly when you don&#8217;t know who you are and you don&#8217;t care to find out.&#8221;</em> (translation by me)</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>Have you thought about your identity lately? I&#8217;ll tell you what I&#8217;ve been thinking about it. I never really thought of myself as &#8216;gay&#8217; until I had to &#8216;come out&#8217; and explain why I wasn&#8217;t going to date a girl soon. I never really thought of myself as inherently &#8216;Australian&#8217; until I lived overseas and people continually asked me where I was from. I never really thought of myself as a &#8216;hipster&#8217; until&#8230;</p>
<p>A few years ago, I became a part of an arts collective whose main goal it was to organise events throughout the year that were (to us) fun and would draw a crowd outside of our established friendship circles. We hoped to create critical mass in a city so disparate and fundamentally cliquey. We started out small and, like some sort of awkward more-dirt-than-snow snowball, gathered more and more followers, volunteers, general well-wishes, and even a few antagonists along the way. We won a bunch of awards and remembered to congratulate ourselves when we weren&#8217;t stressed with finding new ways of getting funding.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m about to move cities and the legacy of the arts collective is quite impressive for a bunch of angular, outspoken, nerdy types doing it all voluntarily. If I were on a reality TV show, I&#8217;d insert a &#8216;journey&#8217; story, but the only way I&#8217;ve really changed through the experience is in my own confidence: I know now that I can achieve things, that I&#8217;m not nihilistically lazy, and that hard work pays off (with failure being the necessary and universal stumbling block). But even before I was surrounded by dynamic groups of emerging artists, writers and musicians, I was what would be referred to now as a &#8216;hipster&#8217;, though for some reason the term wasn&#8217;t as pervasive in the mid-00s as it is today. I only know that I must have been one because the term &#8216;hipster&#8217; has been levelled at the arts collective numerous times since.</p>
<p>What I can deduce from connotations associated with the derogative use of the word &#8216;hipster&#8217; is that it&#8217;s someone who tries to gain status through taste: what they wear (were you the &#8216;first&#8217; to discover an amazing Scandinavian denim range? Did you &#8216;source&#8217; a locally designed shirt?); what they do (never working full time or somewhere mainstream, or if you do it&#8217;s for the inner-city rent and to subsidise the clothing); what they listen to (anything before it&#8217;s too popular, anything else &#8216;ironically&#8217;); and even what they eat (there are a few subcategories here: vegetarians, vegans, and post-colonial &#8216;discoverers&#8217; – ie “I found this amazing Iranian restaurant the other night&#8230;”). These are people who relish the word “bespoke” and loved dragonfruit that one time they bought it at the farmers&#8217; market.</p>
<p>I classify myself as &#8216;hipster&#8217; only because I could write the above list knowingly and I definitely exhibit a few too-cool-for-school tendencies (What, you&#8217;ve never seen a Jodorowsky film?, I have Twitter and Tumblr accounts, etc). But this is the point. Stereotypes are not indicative of a person&#8217;s entire identity. I don&#8217;t ride fixies nor have I bought an Olympus Trip 35, but I&#8217;ll claim &#8216;hipster&#8217; if I have to. I know the struggle with labels intimately (remember I&#8217;m &#8216;gay&#8217;), which is why the trend to buck the trend-setters is what interests me, because I think it ties in with Australian cultural cringe and the identity of the &#8216;anti-bogan&#8217;.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>In the article “<a href="http://overland.org.au/2011/08/maliciousness-in-memes/" target="_blank">Maliciousness in Memes</a>” by Elizabeth Humphrys recently published in Overland, the author raises awareness about &#8216;othering&#8217; groups of people – in this case &#8216;bogans&#8217; – and critiques self-righteousness and classism. While I found it interesting, I didn&#8217;t think it took into account the breadth of semiotics involved with Australia&#8217;s favourite label.</p>
<p>What exactly constitutes a &#8216;bogan&#8217;? That depends on who you ask. (Ask @theantibogan. Or trawl through <a href="http://thingsboganslike.com/" target="_blank">thingsboganslike.com</a>.) When I&#8217;ve used the term as an insult I imagine a bigoted (mostly homophobic – coz, you know, they&#8217;re the ones mainly out to get me), loud, nationalistic, probably racist Anglo-Australian. When I say &#8216;cashed-up bogan&#8217;, I&#8217;m referring to European and Anglo-Australians who are materialistic, politically-apathetic, and are probably the people driving this country&#8217;s economy. Both the &#8216;bogan&#8217; and &#8216;cashed-up bogan&#8217; in my mind don&#8217;t value education. I&#8217;ve asked my friends what connotations the word &#8216;bogan&#8217; carries for them, and every one said something different. What resulted was that they &#8216;othered&#8217; people they assumed judge their own identity: based on socio-economics, dress-sense, job-title, education, gender, cultural heritage, or sexuality. [Others said they have embraced the 'bogan' within, and see it as a part of the self-deprecating Australian identity. These people might revel in their boganry until one night they too receive shouted profanities from a passing VK Commodore with Ned Kelly decals.]</p>
<p>On the other hand, people tend to be more critical of characteristics in others that they recognise in themselves. There&#8217;s an adage that the people who are the most overtly homophobic probably fall closer on the spectrum to homosexuality than not. Another, newer, adage claims that the only people who are anti-hipster are hipsters themselves. The logic comes from the fact that only someone who keeps abreast of trends will recognise others who are following them. Does this mean that those of us staunchly anti-bogan are really Jim Beam swilling, fast-car fanatics (or however else you define a &#8216;bogan&#8217;) deep, deep down?</p>
<p>Not really.</p>
<p>Are we just gaining status by making fun of those we deem less cultured than us?</p>
<p>Maybe; but there&#8217;s more to cultural cringe than that. First, let&#8217;s look at Australian national identity theory with a reductive history lesson:</p>
<p>Non-Indigenous Australians have a deep-rooted sense of what they are not; but not a very clear idea of what they are. This stems from the colonial &#8216;us&#8217; (the wardens) versus &#8216;them&#8217; (the convicts): “we are not convicts”; or &#8216;us&#8217; (the convicts) versus &#8216;them&#8217; (the wardens): “we are not the oppressors”; or &#8216;us&#8217; (the first Europeans) versus &#8216;them&#8217; (the indigenous people and the &#8216;terra nullius&#8217; landscape): “we are not of this land”. Subsequent migration to the country has continued in this fashion: new migrants identify neither with the Anglo-Australian or Indigenous cultures (the latter being a dicey discourse for most non-Indigenous Australians to find positionality in, unless you&#8217;re Andrew Bolt) and choose instead to identify with the culture they came from, which becomes an idealised version of that nationality.</p>
<p>Historically, the Anglo-Australian identity is adverse to accountability: non-convict British (wardens) didn&#8217;t identify with the convicts, nor as being new-Australians, and so chose to identify as British, thereby distancing themselves further from their new surroundings. A deeply entrenched &#8216;othering&#8217; of the landscape is a profound part of non-Indigenous Australian identity. It has led to destruction, not only of Aboriginal cultures, but destruction of flora and fauna, introduction of flora and fauna to counter the original destruction, the Stolen Generations (whereby the wardens tried to &#8216;save&#8217; the natives from themselves), and the new mindset of the &#8216;anti-bogan&#8217;.</p>
<p>Writing about Australian national identity is tough. Australians are generally hyper-critical by nature, and as I&#8217;ve already outlined, we&#8217;re quick to say what we&#8217;re not (ergo not being accountable for what we are). Even though we may frequently position ourselves against them, believe it or not, the majority of us are neither bogan nor hipster. We&#8217;re just – well what? This isn&#8217;t necessarily an Australia specific quandary, either. Daniel Lampien says: “The constant renewing and the self-hate is why there a fewer things that actually are Swedish. Except the things that are so Swedish that we don&#8217;t even recognise it. Like using the word &#8216;unSwedish&#8217;.” So how do we identify as &#8216;Australian&#8217;? Are we &#8216;Australian&#8217; because we all like a cold beer and a barbie on a Summer&#8217;s day? Well, what&#8217;s more likely is that we are &#8216;Australian&#8217; because together we live our lives in this dichotomy of &#8216;wardens&#8217; (berating &#8216;bogans&#8217;; lamenting what to do about the plight of Indigenous Australians; and revelling in OH&amp;S policy) and whoever we&#8217;re &#8216;othering&#8217; at any given time (&#8216;bogans&#8217;, &#8216;hipsters&#8217;, &#8216;the gays&#8217;, boat people, Muslims, Americans, etc.). We&#8217;re egalitarian and champion the underdog only until it becomes a (real or imaginary) threat to our identity.</p>
<p>I can hear some of you snorting in derision already. So I ask you: how do you define your &#8216;Australianness&#8217;? Keep in mind your identity is based more on what you <em>do</em> than what you say you are. I know I&#8217;m Australian because when travelling I &#8216;other&#8217; other Australians who make a point of loudly announcing that they&#8217;re Australian. Why? I guess it&#8217;s cultural cringe: I feel like I&#8217;m being represented by the &#8216;bogans&#8217; that found their way out of the country. I call this inappropriate and misinformed feeling of shame the &#8216;Changi Giant Toblerone Syndrome&#8217;: that moment in the Asian airport hub – on your way back from Europe or wherever – when you hear your first unadulterated Aussie accent for a long time, sounding out banalities about duty free purchases. All of I sudden I forget any notion of individual identity and fear I&#8217;m being judged on the actions of others.</p>
<p>On the contrary, the insecurity that marks the anti-bogan sentiment makes me think that Australians are much less individualistic than we claim to be (as opposed to group mentalities in some Asian cultures). There&#8217;s an inherent yearning for a strong, unifying national identity, untarnished by classism, colonialism and contempt for the landscape. There&#8217;s a longing for validation from the rest of the world, while we self-consciously worry whether we&#8217;re representing ourselves &#8216;properly&#8217; to ourselves in the media mirror.</p>
<p>There&#8217;s no better example of this than the recent QANTAS misstep. And no, not the union strikes. For a while on QANTAS flights, John Travolta – well-known for owning an old QANTAS Boeing 707 – introduced the recorded safety demonstration. This American actor addressing Australians on their national airline sent audible groans of discontent throughout the passenger cabin. It was changed a couple of months ago to Australian pilots, but this trajectory is common: Australians will seek out a foreigner (or self-appointed warden, like government-funded arts policies) to validate the national brand, then will pander to dissent on account of perceived condescension. It&#8217;s like we&#8217;re teenagers hungry for approval but wanting to develop independence at the same time: we&#8217;ll get stroppy if anyone else tells us who we are, though feel unrepresented if ignored.</p>
<p>Having this youthful (though precocious) attitude means we worry more about our future identity, rather than being hung up on losing a proud history. The upside to a shameful past and an elusive identity is that we&#8217;re free to adapt and change; we&#8217;re not bogged down with a subscription to nationalistic nostalgia or boxed in by dogma.</p>
<p>The downside is that we critique culture(s) to make up for the lack of cultural identity we perceive we possess: we try to grasp at what is &#8216;Australian&#8217; by what is &#8216;unAustralian&#8217;. We define ourselves as cosmopolitan, intelligent, open-minded, tasteful, global citizens by othering &#8216;bogans&#8217; – but we&#8217;re not smug about being those things because that would be considered &#8216;tall poppy&#8217;; and a lack of self-deprecation is definitely &#8216;unAustralian&#8217;. Maybe &#8216;hipster&#8217; qualities in a person are anathema to the Australian identity because they exemplify the tall poppy syndrome? But perversely, being a tall poppy now and then might actually make us more accountable. God knows we need a tall poppy (read: &#8216;leader&#8217;) in Australian politics, rather than two parties that self-consciously base policies on the anti-.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve had enough experience being anti- (self-hating gay, anti-hometown, anti-Australia) to know one can&#8217;t find solace in ones identity like that. However, the wrong interpretation of not being anti- is to adopt and wear the imposed label with <em>pride</em>. Oh no. Identity should come from pride in what you do, not pride in your byline. In fact, those labels like &#8216;bogan&#8217; and &#8216;hipster&#8217; and &#8216;gay&#8217; are just adjectives, and should be treated as such. Nobody is the personification of a label. I&#8217;m not &#8216;proud&#8217; to be a hipster (noun), I just accept that some parts of my lifestyle could be deemed as hipster (adjective). I&#8217;m proud of what I&#8217;ve achieved with that arts collective, which has had a greater impact on my identity than what wearing an oversized jumper ever could.</p>
<p>Similarly, during bouts of &#8216;Changi Giant Toblerone Syndrome&#8217; I worry that my Australian identity is being co-opted by culturally insensitive boors, but what I should do is acknowledge how similar we are as &#8216;Australians&#8217;: I&#8217;m critiquing their culture and they&#8217;re critiquing the culture they&#8217;ve just visited. Both of us are determining our identity as Australians by what we deem as not suitably Australian. We both exercise our Australianness by becoming &#8216;wardens&#8217; – I impose on them the label of &#8216;bogan&#8217;, while they amp up the ocker voices and deride the cleanliness of the restaurant that gave them Bali belly.</p>
<p>So being anti-bogan is just our way of exhibiting the unaccountable nature of our national identity. Anyone can exhibit bogan – or hipster, or gay, or liberal, or feminist, or Australian – traits, however it takes much more confidence to transcend these acquired or imposed labels and just be yourself.</p>
<p>And that&#8217;s what I was thinking about identity lately.</p>
<p>Well, at least I think I was&#8230; I&#8217;m not sure.</p>
<p>*finds way of being unaccountable* :S</p>
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		<title>IT’S ONLY WORDS: Same-sex marriage &amp; destroying the Other</title>
		<link>http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2011/09/27/it%e2%80%99s-only-words-same-sex-marriage-destroying-the-other/</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Sep 2011 02:27:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Originally published here: http://anoddgeography.tumblr.com/post/9655862984/its-only-words-same-sex-marriage-destroying-the I have taught English as a second language to adult students at a university for over four years, and in that time I have worked with devout muslims and catholics, the religious-less Chinese, gay Brazilians, (surprisingly) agnostic Saudis, argumentative French, and alcohol-friendly Iraqis. I’ve taught women who would perform a mercy killing [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=410&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
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<p>Originally published here: <a href="http://anoddgeography.tumblr.com/post/9655862984/its-only-words-same-sex-marriage-destroying-the">http://anoddgeography.tumblr.com/post/9655862984/its-only-words-same-sex-marriage-destroying-the</a></p>
<p>I have taught English as a second language to adult students at a university for over four years, and in that time I have worked with devout muslims and catholics, the religious-less Chinese, gay Brazilians, (surprisingly) agnostic Saudis, argumentative French, and alcohol-friendly Iraqis. I’ve taught women who would perform a mercy killing on their daughters if they brought shame to the family; Koreans obsessed with saving money for plastic surgery to remove the epicanthic folds of their eyes; people from war-torn countries suffering from overt post-traumatic stress disorder; and students from two of the most violent cities on the planet (Caracas and Baghdad) sitting next to each other, sharing a knowing laugh. Of course, all of them have been “educated” ergo from a fairly middle-class background. Their identities swim around in my petri dish, while I reflect on my own, in between moments when I remember to teach.</p>
<p>A part of language lessons are the ‘getting to know you’ games – exercises that allow the students to practice their listening and speaking skills, and a good opportunity for me to memorise their names, overhear their level of English and any interesting points of view they may have. When they get to relationship status vocabulary, they have the choice of saying they are single, have a boyfriend/girlfriend, are engaged, married, or divorced. There seems to be no need to learn the words ‘de facto’ or ‘partners from a civil union’. And you never learn the word ‘gay’, or ‘homosexual’ unless those adjectives apply to you.</p>
<p>In the higher level classes, we sometimes get the students to debate ‘controversial’ issues. These topics include the death sentence, abortion, euthanasia, and the like, and yet only a couple of text books will include gay rights and/or same-sex marriage – depending on when they were published. Students learn language like: “I understand your point of view, but I disagree…” and “I agree with you, however…”, and we discuss the English ways of compromise and the levels of politeness that use the conditional (“I would like that very much!” or “I couldn’t possibly!”). I have tentatively included gay rights into the mix on a few occasions and students will almost always treat it as a taboo subject: they will speak about it like it’s a problem for people they’ve only ever heard about – the underclasses of the West, or the embarrassment of their nation. Gay people are Other. And if students have the choice, they will never continue the discussion further. Usually they forget to use “I think” or “I believe” and cut it down to the categorical “They are”. I tentatively use the topic in my lessons because this homophobia and ignorance hurts. I can rationally compartmentalise what they say as a product of their cultural upbringing. I don’t judge them for that. But on another level it bruises. It shakes the self-esteem (am I not accepted?). It’s a blow. And it would be easier to compartmentalise as “something only ignorant foreigners say” (and thereby ‘othering’ them), if in the lift on my way out of the building I don’t also have to endure overheard homophobic comments from Australians, too, flippantly making me feel Other in my own country, where I thought we valued critical thinking and a fair-go.</p>
<p>Being ‘Other’ is the crux of the same-sex marriage debate. It’s not just about marriage. It’s not just about “love”, or even about a pragmatic, legal way of sharing assets. (People dismissively suggest if that were the case, a civil union would be just fine. You know, like it was fine being forced to sit at the back of the bus because of your race – because you were still on the bus.) I <em>could</em> have a de facto relationship with a Spaniard, and he <em>could</em> move to Australia after we prove a yearlong commitment which would benefit from similar legal recognition as marriage as far as immigration is concerned. However, I can’t marry him (as it’s legal to do) in Spain and have it recognised in Australia as marriage. The issue here is that I’m being told I can’t have what my own brother has. I’m ‘othered’ from my own family. That hurts.</p>
<p>In light of the recent political and social debate on same-sex marriage, every Australian has been given the chance to form an opinion on the topic. Whether pro-marriage equality or against, it’s a positive thing that the vocabulary of the marginalised has entered national dialogue, out of the realm of taboo, like in my classroom. Now, the words “same-sex” and “marriage” are up for a good old semantic scrutinisation.</p>
<p>A few years ago, when I was studying my undergraduate degree, the student newspaper put out a “Queer” edition in which, being recently out and vitriolic, I wrote several pieces all addressing the fact that I hated the word “queer” and that there shouldn’t even have to be a “Queer” edition of anything. I was studying semantics and psychoanalysis at the time and took offense at being ‘othered’. In that edition of the newspaper, the straight, male editors otherwise tip-toed around the theme, leaving it to the gays and lesbians on campus to fill the pages. At the time, even the words “gay community” were being debated, with “LGBT community” replacing them. (Now it’s the lengthy acronym LGBTIQ. Its length, I think, demonstrating how fluid and irrelevant a person’s sex-life is to their place in society. Why not also add A[sexual], C[hild-free] and then to be inclusive and not self-‘othering’, H[eterosexual]?) I still have a problem with “community” as it conjures the image of a secular society where, once you’ve labelled yourself Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual,Trans, Inter-sexual, or Questioning, you get an ID card and attend regular meetings. It was another way of ‘othering’ non-hetero sexualities. My vitriol came from the fact that I believed “gay rights” weren’t just the problem of LGBTIQ people, but everyone – it’s a human right. Guaranteed there’s someone residing in that sexuality spectrum somewhere in your family or friendship group. Thankfully, in the five years since then, I’m seeing a surge of heterosexual students and social commentators write just as fervently on marriage equality. It has entered the national psyche.</p>
<p>Personally, I don’t care if I get married (it’s outdated &#8211; I respect it only because my parents have made it work, though they’ll be the first to say that they have never felt contained or constrained by it) – but I sure as hell care if I’m allowed access to the word. Traditionally, and globally, “marriage” means a formalised legal contract of commitment between two people. Let’s forget about religion – if it’s purely a union for God’s eyes, then I can list scores of family and friends living in married sin (and no one’s screaming for their arrest). Also, there are churches which welcome non-hetero sexualities into the fold – that’s a parallel evolution already happening. Let’s forget about white dress weddings, Bridezillas, and honeymoons: this is the commercial side of marriage, much like how we bemoan Hallmark cashing in on Valentine’s Day. You can still throw a party for a civil union ceremony. In 21<sup>st</sup> century Australia, marriage is simply a rite of passage (and for the few who still manage to schedule it in, it’s a practical legality for breeding). We should forget about the word “love”, too. Love is much too vague and subjective (and a cliche for the writer). The most important word in this debate is “equality” &#8211; “marriage equality” rather than “equal love”. And it’s “same-sex” marriage insomuch as the campaign is for same-sex couples to be allowed to marry, rather than for gay people (or Ls or Bs or Ts or Is or Qs) to be allowed to have their own “gay” marriage – after eating gay cake on their gay birthday.</p>
<p>When I read social commentary against same-sex marriage, it hurts, just like it hurts to hear my students – with whom I’ve built a strong rapport with – say homophobic things; although I find it easier to keep respecting my students. Their paradigm of what constitutes a gay man doesn’t include someone like me (I’d need a silk chiffon number, make-up and complete rejection from society for that to make sense to a lot of them). But in this country we know better: in a country proud of its fair-go ethos, I don’t understand why there has been a delay to see that equality is being denied. It’s frustrating. However, I remind myself that there was a before-and-after for women’s suffrage, that there was a time not sixty years ago when Indigenous Australians were denied their right to vote as well. Who were the people that thought it was OK to treat them like animals from Terra Nullius? Well, that was/would’ve/could’ve been you and me.</p>
<p>Even though parliament seems to be stuck in a conservative malaise at the moment, I’m not giving up hope. People are predictable, people move in herds, people are resistant to change (I remember how long my parents hated the phrase “Seeya later” &#8211; now they use it liberally). Support for same-sex marriage is increasing, and not because activists are door-knocking and brainwashing the undecided. It’s because we live in a society that generally believes non-hetero sexualities are natural and normal. That there is nothing different between us as humans. Our unwarranted ‘otherness’ comes from a tolerance of fear and hate based on ignorance or a misinterpreted text in a holy book, not science nor, more importantly, anything we<em>do</em>. I’m not giving up hope because those who aren’t fearful of same-sex marriage (or non-hetero sexualities) will never change their minds.</p>
<p>So for me – to calm my vitriolic rage – the most important thing coming from the same-sex marriage debate is not that one day John and Paul can spend thousands of dollars on a wedding party (although think of the economic boost!) – but that it’s making everybody, whether they like it or not, think about the fact that it’s possible – just possible – that being homosexual doesn’t preclude you from a rite-of-passage heterosexuals take for granted. That if same-sex couples could also marry (and hopefully soon, adopt), a person’s sexuality could no longer be ‘othered’. That’s the big ask: not just for the right to the adjective “married”, but for another step closer to losing the word “Other”. Now that it’s not taboo to talk about, I hope it’s only a matter of time before we look back on today as the beginning of the end of an embarrassing dark age.</p>
<p>In the meantime, I’ll continue to experiment with discussions on gay-rights in my classroom. If there’s one thing I’ve taken from my experiences teaching (and travelling) is that you cannot predict someone’s basic humanity from their country’s legislation or dominant religion. But I will tread carefully. I am, like most people, a follower. When your own country doesn’t have your back, it’s easy to remain fearful you’ll be rejected. And that’s what hurts the most.</p>
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		<title>Identikit</title>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jan 2011 02:52:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
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		<category><![CDATA[adelaide]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[australian identity]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[I’m home now. “Home.” At the moment home means my parent’s house, which as a soon-to-be 27 year old, isn’t too gnarly, but I know it is temporary and their love of having me around is comforting. Especially since the last two weeks after getting back from the States have been very disorientating. I arrived [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=306&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/45141_459496860534_533820534_6733471_2673668_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-308" title="Temple bells in Nara, Japan" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/45141_459496860534_533820534_6733471_2673668_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>I’m home now.</p>
<p>“Home.”</p>
<p>At the moment home means my parent’s house, which as a soon-to-be 27 year old, isn’t too gnarly, but I know it is temporary and their love of having me around is comforting. Especially since the last two weeks after getting back from the States have been very disorientating. I arrived on the first Monday of the year, went to work on the Tuesday to double-check when I’d be starting back, and was told “Oh, tomorrow.” I have worked nonstop since then because I’ve also dived back into Format and we’re organising the 2011 festival.</p>
<p>It was nice to see my desk was left untouched in the five months I was away, and the same old faces bore the same old smiles. Unfortunately, I got some complaints from students in the first couple of days of teaching. Fair enough: I was probably a zombie. Though I don&#8217;t think I&#8217;m over the jetlag and the adjustment yet, made worse by getting back into a very similar routine I had before I left. Every moment I feel like I’m processing a thousand thoughts. It takes a lot of effort, and I suppose my face reflects this. One Korean student said to a co-worker yesterday: “Sam’s a good teacher, but he doesn’t smile enough. And he’s very <em>shrit</em>.”</p>
<p>“Strict,” I corrected.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/46493_464466620534_533820534_6865229_6731147_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-309" title="Grassy knoll in Glasgow" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/46493_464466620534_533820534_6865229_6731147_n.jpg?w=220&#038;h=300" alt="" width="220" height="300" /></a></p>
<p>*</p>
<p>‘Home’ has always been a terribly awkward word for me. At the age of six my family moved to Adelaide from Melbourne – my childhood ‘home’ ripped away. To make matters worse, my family didn’t exactly warm to Adelaide, so for a very long time I wondered what the heck we were doing here; here in this “big town” – as they called it – away from all of our family and friends “back home” in Melbourne.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/64687_478557915534_533820534_7163185_7516168_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-310" title="Mollycoddling notice in Notting Hill" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/64687_478557915534_533820534_7163185_7516168_n.jpg?w=225&#038;h=300" alt="" width="225" height="300" /></a></p>
<p>This time returning to Adelaide hasn’t been as painful as other returns – notably from the UK, Spain and South America. I don’t look down on the city anymore. Sure, I’d like to see it change and grow in some ways, but I think I have finally made peace with the fact that it doesn’t have to reach my expectations anymore. I can always leave. And now I know a few places in the world where I would like to make base camp. Also, I am a part of a small operation that is unique in trying to change the social landscape in the city, so what more could I expect of myself here? Because that’s the point: if you’re frustrated with a city, it’s only a reflection on frustrations you have with yourself.</p>
<p>Well.</p>
<p>A less introspective analysis proves that that’s too simple an answer. While I do believe it’s up to oneself to flourish wherever one is, certain outside factors do contribute to ones happiness in a place.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/72145_483522665534_533820534_7257660_7475383_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-311" title="Artistic in Berlin" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/72145_483522665534_533820534_7257660_7475383_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/39610_490673625534_533820534_7381966_2089316_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-307" title="Soviet statues in Tallinn" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/39610_490673625534_533820534_7381966_2089316_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>I’m still trying to process all this, and I’m sure I’ll look back on this entry and think, “Really?&#8221;. However, these are my thoughts at the moment:</p>
<p>I am lucky:</p>
<p>I live in a gift-horse of a country. I work in a gift-horse of a job.</p>
<p>The weather is not shit here.</p>
<p>I’ve met scores of amazing, interesting, talented people just in this city alone.</p>
<p>But I’ve stayed in this city like staying in a bad relationship. No, not bad. Just stagnant. I walk around Adelaide like a shadow. And while I love pretending to be an ocker Australian – I constantly feel like an outsider here.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/155293_10150089848780535_533820534_7550593_7850738_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-312" title="New York City... or is it Nigeria? I forget..." src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/155293_10150089848780535_533820534_7550593_7850738_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>Scene:</p>
<p>Settling into my seat on the Qantas 747, San Francisco to Sydney. The flight attendant – a middle aged man with salt and pepper hair – leans in towards the lady in front of me and says, gesturing at her mobile phone: “That has to be off. You can turn it on again when we land, but it <em>has to be off right now</em>.”</p>
<p>Ah yes. I remembered. Australian officiousness. Just because you’re saying it with a smile, doesn’t make it any less patronising. (See also, “too easy, mate” and &#8220;no worries, mate&#8221;.) Though, rather than roll my eyes, I was glad to find I just accepted it as another trait of another national stereotype. In no time, the cabin crew made me warm to them when they weren’t enforcing Rules (Australians <em>love</em> rules), because they were quick to smile genuinely and make jokes. As we arrived in Australia on a cloudy day, the pilot welcomed us to “sunny Sydney”. Australians have irony deeply imbedded in the national psyche.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/156853_10150104314590535_533820534_7763885_1281698_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-313" title="Palenque and proud" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/156853_10150104314590535_533820534_7763885_1281698_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>*</p>
<p>So I don’t know.</p>
<p>I left the country hoping to fall in love with another place; rationally telling myself to treat the trip as shopping for a new city. But like with people relationships, you <em>never</em> know how things will turn out at the point of commitment, and until then it’s all just superficial; a string of flings. I have some lovely memories of places, but I don’t have any more clarity on the whole new-place-to-live-and-commit-to thing. Damn my fluttering, romantic restlessness.</p>
<p>(I did, however, leave my soul in Mexico, and I will be back there to visit it from time to time, forever, thank you very much.)</p>
<p>My thoughts continue with:</p>
<p>Where I am is my family and my friends, but they cannot be my lovers.</p>
<p>A practical choice would be London because I also have family and friends there, and maybe I’d like the challenge. Also, I can get my ancestry visa. The downside of New York (however much I love it) is working or studying there is either too hard or too expensive.</p>
<p>But before I leave Adelaide I have a few goals I want to accomplish here. I can suck it up until then.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/163167_10150110761390535_533820534_7879247_2109069_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-314" title="Christmas Cayman Islands style" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/163167_10150110761390535_533820534_7879247_2109069_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>*</p>
<p>The trip has given me stronger self-esteem. I can better snap out of my doldrums: feel the sadness and let go. I am &#8220;good enough&#8221;. I don’t begrudge my Australian heritage, because we are extremely lucky to be born here. But my identity is not patriotically Australian. Patriotism is quite stupid. I see now that my frustrations with myself and where I live are all seeds of perfectionism that I have to keep weeding. Why can’t Adelaide and Australia be “good enough” too?</p>
<p>I also believe in self-improvement.</p>
<p>Sorry this is all extremely self-indulgent. But isn&#8217;t it artistically subtle ‘n’ shit that there’s no closure? Instead, I’ll leave you, and the blog of this journey, with a story about remembering who you are.</p>
<p>I had a six hour layover in Sydney airport before flying to Adelaide and I kept myself awake in the terminal (and I look forward to doing this every time) by eating. Of course, this leads to needing the bathroom – sorry&#8230; toilet, I’m not in the States anymore – and I made a mad dash to the men’s only to find it full. So, not to worry, I quickly walked to another one further down the terminal hall. Again, it was full. And before I knew it, these words, this very Australian turn of phrase, entered my head:</p>
<p>“God damn it, every dickhead and his arsehole’s here.”</p>
<p>And I laughed.</p>
<p>And on my way to the third lavatory, I passed under a banner saying “Welcome Back”, and I teared up a little.</p>
<p>When I finally sat down, it was a relief to take a bog on home soil.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/165737_10150104271440535_533820534_7763057_3001902_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-315" title="Brassy mirror, Frida Kahlo's house" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/165737_10150104271440535_533820534_7763057_3001902_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
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			<media:title type="html">Temple bells in Nara, Japan</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">New York City... or is it Nigeria? I forget...</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">Palenque and proud</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">Christmas Cayman Islands style</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">Brassy mirror, Frida Kahlo&#039;s house</media:title>
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		<title>No Need</title>
		<link>http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2011/01/08/no-need/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 08 Jan 2011 12:39:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[apathy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[home shopping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[identity]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[new years eve]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[san francisco]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[I sat flicking through the in-flight shopping magazine, willing time to fly; not just the plane. Unfortunately, I’d read everything else in my seat pocket while the plane taxied out to the runway. Mostly, I’d skimmed through articles after the point of each became too laboured. There was only so much I cared about chess [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=293&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/166262_10150115726515535_533820534_7974289_5916046_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-296" title="false advertising" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/166262_10150115726515535_533820534_7974289_5916046_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>I sat flicking through the in-flight shopping magazine, willing time to fly; not just the plane. Unfortunately, I’d read everything else in my seat pocket while the plane taxied out to the runway. Mostly, I’d skimmed through articles after the point of each became too laboured. There was only so much I cared about chess boxing after the initial FAQs were covered in the introduction: two men sat in a boxing ring, played chess, then hit each other to prove that brain <em>and</em> brawn were the epitomy of masculinity. No clubs in Australia yet, so I’ll just leave my left hooks and white rooks on the shelf till then (ho ho!).</p>
<p>The shopping magazine, on the other hand, was addictive. I poured over page after page of garish, ugly crap, and modern, useless crap, playing the game: “you have to choose one thing to own on each page”. It’s a tired observation, but I’ll repeat it again: who buys these things? Items on offer included ‘The Always Cool Pillow’, ‘The <em>Original</em> Sleep Sound Generator’, the ‘“Keep-Your-Distance” Bug Vacuum’, a ceramic drinking water fountain for pets, the ‘Front Pocket Wallet’ – because nobody I know can ever fit their wallet in a pocket – and ‘The Genuine Handmade Irish <em>Shillelagh</em>’ – a walking stick. My two favourites for their complete incomprehensibility were ‘The Marshmallow Shooter’ (a toy that <em>wastes</em> perfectly good sugary food), and partitions to keep cats away from your keyboard and computer. Finally! Unstable pieces of plastic that clutter your desk and supposedly keep a 5kg animal away! That&#8217;ll keep the cats away!</p>
<p>It’s an almost five hour flight to San Francisco from Miami, but I can honestly say that after I’d marked about fifty gadgets as birthday gifts I’ll never receive, it was one of the most excruciating of the entire trip. American Airlines don’t seem to have upgraded anything since the 90s – I felt like I was trapped in a <em>Seinfeld</em> episode, or a film starring John Candy. The in-flight entertainment was bland, there was no complimentary food (on a 5 hour flight, come on!), and the seats rattled around like they were hastily bolted down with an allen key as we rollercoasted through turbulence.</p>
<p>I wasn’t looking forward to going back to the Northern Hemisphere winter, but stepping out of San Francisco airport was much like entering a southern Australian winter, and much more bearable than the icy climes I’d experienced on the trip so far.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/164184_10150115726925535_533820534_7974293_3823519_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-295" title="downtown san fran" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/164184_10150115726925535_533820534_7974293_3823519_n.jpg?w=225&#038;h=300" alt="" width="225" height="300" /></a></p>
<p>I decided it was a good idea to book a hotel near the airport as I was only staying in the Bay Area for a few nights over New Year before catching the final flights home on New Years Day. The BART train system sweeps over the area like a public transport rainbow – and made getting into San Francisco cheap(ish) and easy, and my hotel was close to several very good restaurants and supermarkets. The only problem I had was tiredness. Not just from restless sleep, but of travelling. I’d travelled five months straight, staying nowhere more than two weeks; the constant packing up and worry of washing and where to sleep and eat was wearing thin. I felt like I was standing still and the landscape moved past me like painted backdrops in a cartoon: details were starting to blur into repetition. A lot of the excitement of a new place had gone, and I’d started thinking a lot about home.</p>
<p>With a sigh, I continued my trek around San Francisco, crossing Fort Mason, keeping an eye on the Golden Gate Bridge through the trees, telling myself “You’re in San Francisco, you’re in San Francisco&#8230; look at that. That’s the bridge. You know, the famous one. Apparently people throw themselves off it all the time. Oh look, Alcatraz” all in a monotone mutter; a pointless patter of encouragement to enjoy the moment. I did at times: San Francisco is too beautiful not to have some power over your moods, but mine were overwhelmingly a mixture of nostalgia and nervousness. And something about the light made the city seem retro, like I was in an replica of &#8216;yesteryear&#8217;. Maybe it had something to do with the change from tropical Caribbean island to grey winter: or maybe because it was the end of the year, as well as the end of my trip that I couldn’t help but fall into reflection.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/163471_10150115727830535_533820534_7974320_7087490_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-294" title="icons of san francisco" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/163471_10150115727830535_533820534_7974320_7087490_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>I was worried not only about the return to ‘normalcy’, but what I would do for New Year’s Eve. I&#8217;m not a fan of it. Mostly because it reminds me I still haven’t met someone to celebrate it with (or as people would cynically point out, a lover to fight with, too), and I’m not a huge “partier” (oh God, I sound so unhip and square). In New Orleans I’d been lucky to meet friends for Thanksgiving, but if there’s anything I’ve learnt from experience, or Aslan, is that rarely do the same things happen the same way more than once. Also, I just didn’t have the energy to deal with strangers. The entire time in San Francisco, I felt close to tears – I experienced every human encounter like a robot – my expression became what a close friend of mine calls my ‘sock puppet face’. Even my attempt at banter with a thrift shop employee came out embarrassingly stilted:</p>
<p>Employee: “You’ll need this jacket now it’s cold.”</p>
<p>Me: *beat* “&#8230;Oh it’s not c-cold. Cold.” Smile. Expression: Phewy, do I know cold!</p>
<p>Employee: “Yeah I guess we can’t complain here, but we do!”</p>
<p>Me: “Well, it’s just like winter where I’m fro- Back home&#8230; And we complain&#8230;too?”</p>
<p>Employee: “Where’s home?”</p>
<p>Me: “Aust- Adel- Adelaide&#8230; Australia.” Beam. Wait for obligatory, “How close is it to Sydney?” question. Nothing. End transaction with polite “Have a good new year”, leave shop. Trip on step on way out.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/168173_10150115727030535_533820534_7974295_3092864_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-297" title="beat street" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/168173_10150115727030535_533820534_7974295_3092864_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>On New Year’s Eve I decided to head back into the centre and poke around a few more places and then take myself to see <em>Black Swan</em> and decide how I felt about New Year’s celebrations after that. <em>Black Swan</em> was perhaps not the best choice (even though it was my top choice) – the psychosexual poem about paranoia only enhanced my own pensive mood, and as I left the cinema, blown by a litter-strewn wind, I decided to return to the hotel and celebrate the new year with Chinese take-away and the television. I looked around at the grey streets, outnumbered by bums and junkies, and bid adieu to a city I felt bad for just breezing through.</p>
<p>That night I went to bed at ten thirty, trying to convince myself it was just another night and my homesickness would be over soon.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>On the first of January 2011, I spent the day writing the previous blog, surfing the internet and eating more Chinese take-away. My flight to Sydney didn’t leave until eleven that night, so I paid for another night to keep my room. I tried to enjoy it as much as I could, but I felt impatient. I’ve made several returns home after living overseas, and the fear I get is whether I’ll forget what I’ve done, who I’ve met, what I’ve seen, and all those mini moments of growth. Will going home – back to the familiar – undo all of it? I fear that when I’m home I will fall back into old habits that I was desperate to change. And in a hotel room on the other side of the world, I waited, like in a dentist’s reception, for the disappointing reminder that I need to take extra steps to a cleaner, whiter smile&#8230; Or towards contentment: wherever I find myself.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/168358_10150115727805535_533820534_7974319_8372781_n.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-298" title="UN" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/168358_10150115727805535_533820534_7974319_8372781_n.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
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			<media:title type="html">false advertising</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">icons of san francisco</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">beat street</media:title>
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		<title>You Won&#8217;t Believe It</title>
		<link>http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2011/01/02/you-wont-believe-it/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jan 2011 01:22:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[belief]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bioluminescent water]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[botanic gardens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cayman islands]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[christmas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[grand cayman]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[iguanas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pirates]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[yoga]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[In the main street of Palenque I said goodbye to my Mexican travel buddies Renee and Ben and ventured into an Internet cafe (remember them?) to waste about eight hours before my overnight bus to Cancun departed. I used the time to chat to friends, have my last proper Mexican meal (tacos al pastor and [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=279&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020828.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-281" title="A Starfish" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020828.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>In the main street of Palenque I said goodbye to my Mexican travel buddies Renee and Ben and ventured into an Internet cafe (remember them?) to waste about eight hours before my overnight bus to Cancun departed. I used the time to chat to friends, have my last proper Mexican meal (tacos al pastor and a guanaba drink), and buy some last minute snacks for the bus. I had some night-time pills for a cold that struck me in Mexico City, so I took two and actually slept on the bus ride – which was astounding considering the narrow Yucatan b-roads and constant stopping at army patrols and tollbooths. Not to mention the speeding up behind trucks and overtaking with only a few feet to spare before oncoming cars roared past. I woke rather proud of myself, and to watch the sunrise over the low jungle near the coast of Chetumal. Just over there was Guatemala and Belize. Now I was in the American tourist zone, a Bali-esque equivalent: cheap, boozey, gringo-focussed and a safe ‘exotic paradise’ for those who don’t actually want to deal with another culture on holiday&#8230; No&#8230; That’s too judgmental. &#8230;But I’ll leave it in.</p>
<p>I laughed as I past through Mexican airport security – they have signs saying “Keep Your Shoes On!” – a jibe at the States, whose security is so over-the-top and officious, prolonged by asking a long line of people to take their shoes off. It endeared me to Mexico even more; I could understand their frustration at being so close to the behemoth of the States, being looked down on figuratively and geographically. Cancun airport exemplified the forced adaptation to US culture, where the most popular food outlet was a Johnny Rockets. The staff were all Mexican, visibly hating every American customer and resenting the fact that they’d been trained to say, “Will that be all? Have a nice day!”<br />
At every interaction I felt like saying, “I’m Australian” or “<em>Soy australiano”</em> and rolling my eyes at the rude American ordering an upsized shake.</p>
<p>My next stop on the trip was visiting my friends Tom and Chaea on Grand Cayman – the largest of three islands that make up the Cayman Islands in the Caribbean. Chaea had applied for and got a job there with an accounting firm that she’d worked with in Arizona, and they’d moved there a month after I left the country. I took a convoluted route there: Cancun to Miami, Miami to Grand Cayman; flying right over the islands to eventually return there. When I arrived I smelt of two-day old clothes, but was excited by the fact of being somewhere like the Cayman Islands. The <em>only</em> reason I’d ever go there would be if I knew someone. The Caribbean has always seemed a bit too religious, a bit too touristy for my liking.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020729.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-285" title="Cruise ships in George Town harbour" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020729.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>I always describe Tom and Chaea as my most eccentric friends. They are completely unpredictable in their lifestyle choices. The last time I visited them overseas, Tom was teaching English in Langfang – a ‘small’ town outside of Beijing: a small town that had population estimates anywhere between 100, 000 to 1 million people. Tom was later joined by his girlfriend Chaea, and when my friend and I visited them in 2005, they’d found their niche, a group of friends, and had learnt enough tricks to survive in a crazy place like China. The next thing I knew, Tom had entered the green card lottery online to live in the States, and won. They then moved to Phoenix, Arizona to start again. Some of the stories they told of their time there were what I based my expectations of the States on – even though they sounded so far flung. That’s the thing about these two, though: they don’t make this shit up.</p>
<p>When Chaea won her job in the Cayman Islands, I promised I’d visit: partly because I didn’t get a chance to visit them in the States during the two years they spent there &#8211; and partly because I was curious to see the curious couple in an even curiouser place.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>“We met a real pirate,” they tell me as we drive back to their house from the airport – their house: a five minute walk to the beach, next door to a swimming pool.</p>
<p>Here we go, I think.</p>
<p>“He used to be a part of the Hell’s Angels,” they continue. “He showed us a photo. We’ll have to take you to meet him.”</p>
<p>“A real pirate?” I ask, trying to hide my incredulity.</p>
<p>“Well he told us about this one time he got so drunk in Venezuela that the last thing he remembers is trying to pick up some hooker, then waking up with a black man’s arm around him, holding a machete to his throat, but asleep. He showed us the scars from the resulting fight.”</p>
<p>“Ahuh,” I say.</p>
<p>“But the funniest thing is he was the first person on the island to try to rob a bank. Something he’s proud of now.”</p>
<p>“And kind of respected for,” adds the other.</p>
<p>“We’ll take you to his shop. He fashions black coral into jewellery and sells it at a premium to unsuspecting tourists. He&#8217;s also friends with Larry Flint, and hanging from his ceiling are over two hundred used women’s thongs&#8230;”</p>
<p>“Thongs?” I ask. “Like, bikini bottoms?”</p>
<p>“Yeah&#8230; And they’re all numbered. There&#8217;s a photo of each woman in a folder he keeps by the till. But don’t try to give him a new one. He can tell if they’re used or not.”</p>
<p>The car whips past coconut and date palms, locals and tourists carrying snorkels and flippers, and a tourist road train. Three enormous cruise ships are docked in the impossibly deep harbour of George Town – so close to the shore, it seems like an illusion. American tourists swarm around the shops. Shops that all seemed to sell exactly the same things: crappy souvenirs, conch shells, jewellery, rum cake, rum, and potpourri-themed beach paraphernalia.</p>
<p>“We’ve got the week planned a little bit,” they tell me, “because this is the first time we’ve had time off since coming, so we’d love to do all the touristy things with you too.”</p>
<p>Chaea holds up a print out of a schedule, but hesitates to show me. “Oh, actually, we’ll keep some of these activities a secret.” She laughs her infectious giggle and says, “What do you think, Tom?”</p>
<p>“Maybe we’ll just not tell him about Thursday night,” he says. They agree and my mind reels at what possible surprise they could have for me. Wednesday night is yoga on the roof of the Hilton.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020670.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-283" title="Christmas lights - woah, overload" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020670.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>Our days were mostly spent relaxing. We snorkelled among the coral and I saw a vast array of fish I never thought I’d see up close: fish of all colours and sizes – and a school of them kept following me, cheekily grinning every time I turned around to check where my friends were.</p>
<p>One day we explored some mangroves in the north-west of the island, and I asked if I could drive down the canal-lined dirt roads. To my delight they said ‘yes’ without pause for considering their insurance claims, and added that they had already discussed letting me try it out, anyway. I still don’t have my learner’s permit, so this was a big deal. The last time I’d attempted to drive was when I was ten in a car park, so I was equally excited and scared to take the wheel. Thankfully, it seems that seventeen years of intently watching other people drive have paid off, and I took to it without many mistakes. Tom and Chaea were patient and complimentary and it gave me such confidence, that I reluctantly switched sides when we came back into real traffic.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020919.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-286" title="Stingrays at Stingray City" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020919.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>*</p>
<p>On Boxing Day we joined a catamaran cruise out to a place called “Stingray City”, and joined masses of tourists who were turning the crystal clear water into a spandex soup. They shrieked as the giant, beautiful creatures glided in and out of their legs. I made Steve Irwin quips, and added a “oh I’m so going to Hell” remark at the end of each in the hopes Karma/irony wasn’t waiting in the wings – no pun intended. We were then taken to Rum Point, where we all drank too many fluorescent cocktails for our own good. Tom and I waxed lyrical about the architecture styles favoured by ‘new money’ and trespassed onto an open block of land to see what view the owners had. At that moment, with our drinks in hand, police cruised by but didn’t give us a second glance. I suppose on a tax-free island, revenue raising isn’t a major concern.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>“There are a lot of iguanas on the island,” they tell me.</p>
<p>“Oh cool,” I say, “I’d love to see one.”</p>
<p>“Oh you will&#8230; definitely,” they reply. “There’s one.”</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020775.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-284" title="Sweep gets in on the iguana action" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020775.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>Iguanas are everywhere on the island – and they’re not small either. Some I saw were almost three feet long. The blue iguana is endemic to the island, and we headed to the Cayman Islands botanic park to see them. The park was astounding, full of plants I’d never seen before. One in particular, the Sand Box tree, is one I&#8217;m now dying to see when in bloom:</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020792.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-280" title="Sand-Box tree" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020792.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>The iguanas of the park were not shy. At one stage of our walk we had a female blue iguana follow us for a while: she seemed more interested in us than we were of her. What started off as cute turned into a little scary when you noticed their long, sharp claws. Just how friendly were they?</p>
<p>At every new discovery I thought about the stories Tom and Chaea would tell future visiting friends, and how unbelievable it would all seem. Especially because Tom has a nonchalant, whimsical story-telling manner. I was telling them this after we had lunch on the patio of a restaurant overlooking the sea, when Chaea suddenly exclaimed she could smell smoke. We looked around, and sure enough, not a couple of metres away, a tree had smoke rising from one of its branches. I poured some water on the branch, but that only seemed to make it bellow some more. Soon the wind started blowing ash onto us. We looked at each other wondering whether to tell the waitress, or whether we were witnessing the famous &#8216;Burning Trees of Cayman&#8217;. We alerted the waitress (just to be sure), and unperturbed (and slightly distracted) she said in her sing-song Caribbean accent, “Oh, you’re right, dat tree is on fire.” She picked up our jug of water and poured the whole thing on it until we could hear the embers fizzle out. “I’ll get you some more water,” she said and left, as if it was the most ordinary thing in the world.</p>
<p>I could already here Tom relaying the story to someone else, starting with “You wouldn’t believe it, but&#8230;”</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>My surprise, and Christmas present, came on Christmas Eve. After some complications the night before (the mysterious meeting point had changed location), the mysterious ‘tour’ guide apologised and waived the mysterious fee of the mystery. Because of the mishap, Tom and Chaea spilled the beans and told me they had arranged for us to kayak to a place where the water was naturally bio-luminescent. However, even knowing the surprise couldn’t prepare me for the genuine amazement when we got into our kayaks.</p>
<p>We had all assumed the water would be in one particular spot – that we’d have to kayak a long way out to it, be underwhelmed, kayak back, and say positive things about it like, “Well, wasn’t that&#8230; something?”</p>
<p>The reality was much different.</p>
<p>As soon as you put your oar in the water, the water exploded into electric blue hues. Anywhere a foreign body touched the microorganisms in the water, they exploded into colour, surrounding the kayak, the oars, your hands – it was out of a dream. The newest comparison for this phenomenon is “Mom, it’s just like <em>Avatar</em>!” but for me it was more like <em>Tron: In the Sea</em>. The guide told us to plunge our hands into the water and then raise them to let the water trickle down our arms, an effect he called “Alien blood”. It was spectacular. My favourite thing was watching the fish dart about just under the surface. Zigzags of blue lightning pulsed its way through the water – I supposed they swam so quickly because it would be very easy for birds to go night-fishing in this protected inlet. The whole bay was like it, too, not just one particular part. It felt like we’d stumbled upon another planet, even though these rare bio-luminescent bays have been known about for ages. It seems odd, though, that early explorers only ever called it “milk water” – when it seems like something much more alien and magical. We gave the guide a tip and nattered like excited children on our way home, watching the Christmas fireworks sparkle in the dark blue above.</p>
<p>The next day I met the pirate. The ceiling of his shop was, indeed, filled with used thongs.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020842.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-282" title="Santa in heat" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020842.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
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			<media:title type="html">Cruise ships in George Town harbour</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">Christmas lights - woah, overload</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">Sand-Box tree</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">Santa in heat</media:title>
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		<title>Jungle of Nightmares</title>
		<link>http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/26/jungle-of-nightmares/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Dec 2010 04:40:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chiapas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[coatzalcoalcos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hippies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[identity]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mexican jungle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mexico]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nightmare]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[palenque]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tourism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[virgin de guadalupe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[womad]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[yucatan]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/?p=270</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Even though I wanted to stay in Mexico City longer, I knew I would return – I know I will return. And anyway, I had exciting things to look forward to: my friend Renee and her Australian boyfriend, Ben, and I were taking a road trip. A road trip all the way into the Mexican [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=270&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020540.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-274" title="Pyramid, Palenque" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020540.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>Even though I wanted to stay in Mexico City longer, I knew I would return – I <em>know</em> I will return. And anyway, I had exciting things to look forward to: my friend Renee and her Australian boyfriend, Ben, and I were taking a road trip. A road trip all the way into the Mexican jungle: our final destination together, Palenque, in the state of Chiapas.</p>
<p>It’s strange leaving Mexico City in a car. Well, driving anywhere in Mexico is an adventure in itself, but because Mexico City is so elevated, you hit mountains early on and spend a great deal of time climbing down them. We headed east into the state of Puebla, passing Mexico’s tallest peak, Pico de Orizaba, and hundreds of pilgrims heading to Mexico City for the Virgin of Guadalupe’s birthday celebrations. Or, if they weren’t heading to the Capital, they were heading to the nearest town from their village. The rocky, dusty mountain route wound its way around valleys and through tunnels, and before we knew it, we had hit subtropical climes, palm trees sprung out of the ground next to vast wetlands, we took our jackets off – we were now in the state of Veracruz, along the Gulf of Mexico.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020459.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-271" title="Pilgrims" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020459.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020474.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-272" title="Pico de Orizaba" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020474.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>We decided our destination for the night would be the small port city of Coatzalcoalcos (I spent the day trying to pronounce it correctly). We booked into a hotel after a delicious seafood meal with which I tried <em>habanero</em> chili sauce for the first time. I enjoyed the taste, but it did invite involuntary tears to come spurting forth. We then explored the town centre where the festivities for the Virgin’s birthday had already begun. We watched a group of indigenous dancers perform and then, strangely enough, make an offering in the church. It was strange, but an excellent example of Mexico’s pre-Hispanic and Catholic mix: the Virgin once being a mother-goddess for the ancient people of the land, and also a beloved mother figure from the Old Testament introduced by the Spanish during the conquests. Outside the church fireworks were being lit, and like the chilies, they brought tears to the eyes as they exploded right above our heads (obviously not confined by strict OH&amp;S or fire ban laws like in Australia).  After a walk along the esplanade, watching Coatzacoalcos teenagers get ready for a big night out, we decided to turn in and get a good night’s sleep for the final leg of the drive.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020503.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-273" title="Dancer" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020503.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>Palenque is an archaeological site in the middle of the Chiapas jungle at the base of the Yucatan peninsula, close to the border with Guatemala. It was a Mayan city state that had its zenith in the 7<sup>th</sup> century and fell around 800AD. It’s smaller than other archaeological sites on the Yucatan peninsula, like Calakmul, and not as famous as Chichen Itza, but Renee guaranteed it was the most impressive, with the best examples of Mayan produced sculpture and carving. She wasn’t wrong: the architecture of the palace and pyramids in the surrounding jungle-scape gave the site a great Indiana Jones feel.</p>
<p>We stayed in cabins in a jungle resort for those wanting to get close to nature. Unfortunately this meant the place was riddled with gringo hippies. Or they were the type of tourist who thought that not washing and taking ‘green’ drugs meant they were actively being a “traveller”.  Or, they were Argentinean, and played the bongos.</p>
<p>[In Adelaide we have one of the many WOMAD festivals in the world – it’s a “world music” festival that, while I love, does attract this demographic, too. What’s worse than a First World Hippy, though, is the type who buys hemp clothing to wear just the one time they go to the festival. There are even stores in Adelaide that advertise their “WOMADelaide clothing” during the weeks leading up to it. It baffles me.]</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020587.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-275" title="Palace, Palenque" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020587.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>I had a cabin to myself. It contained a queen size bed and a single bed and a bathroom. I put my suitcase and other belongings on the single bed and used the queen to sleep on. Both beds kind of looked like they were drifting in the middle of the room. They weren’t pushed up against the wall, and from the stains scattered here and there on the walls, I assume this meant it saved you waking up to find a tropical multi-legged friend staring back at you.</p>
<p>I like the tropics. I like the vivid green and the humidity. I like hearing the animals make sounds that are as dense as the air trapped under the canopies. What I don’t like are spiders. Or mosquitoes – and I’d forgotten all about getting shots or malaria tablets before coming to Mexico, so the first thing we did was buy insect repellent (<em>contra Dengue!</em>) in Palenque town. This, however, didn’t make me forget about constant bug vigilance.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>It was with this anxiety I went to bed the first night.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>A jaguar was growling outside my cabin when I awoke during the night. It was a constant sound, like domestic cats in heat, groaning at the moon. It was terrifying. I peaked outside my window, my ceiling fan swooping silently overhead. I couldn’t see anything except the dark outline of foliage in the near distance. The jungle was alive. Underneath the growling was the rhythmic chirping of bugs and birds. Then I realised, it wasn’t a jaguar at all. That was stupid. It was just the howler monkeys anticipating a change in the atmosphere. Soon enough, big drops of rain started to fall and hit the tin roof of the cabin, creating a new layer to the cacophony outside.</p>
<p>I noticed my ears burning. It felt like something had bitten them. Images of me remaining in bed for months in agonising pain, malnourished from some tropical disease flashed through my mind.</p>
<p>Then, I was in Adelaide. I was riding my bike down an industrial road, with the sun beating down and semi-trailers roaring past me, missing me by centimetres. Gradually the road became more and more congested and I was running out of space to ride. Drivers yelled out to me: some angry, some lecturing me about the dangers of cycling in the city. All of a sudden I had nowhere to ride safely and was caught up in the traffic, navigating a few metres before a 4WD cleaned me up&#8230;</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>The next day in Palenque we met up with Renee’s friends James and Rocio who were on their own adventure through southern Mexico. For the next two days we visited several sites around the area together, including the Mayan ruins and some waterfalls. We found a local restaurant off the tourist map, and I continued my new found love of <em>habanero</em> chili, drizzling it on my tortillas at every opportunity.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020616.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-277" title="the dreaded habanero" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020616.jpg?w=225&#038;h=300" alt="" width="225" height="300" /></a></p>
<p>*</p>
<p>That night I woke up with a Mayan priest standing over me, raising his hands to the heavens, muttering some sort of sacrificial chant. He looked down and in his eyes I saw red smoke, and then my insides churned. My body lurched, and I doubled over in bed, contracting from foetal to plank and back again. My stomach in a death grip, the priest tore open the roof and let the spirits fly into my gaping mouth. I wondered if I was finally succumbing to some sort of Montezuma’s Revenge and plotted the quickest path to the bathroom – reminding myself it was the toilet, not the sink, that one b-lines to (I&#8217;ve made that mistake before &#8211; this is how seldom I vomit). I focussed on my breathing and listened to the jungle heaving outside. My gut was accommodating the introduction of <em>habanero</em>. Lucky for me, all I suffered was the sweats, and eventually fell asleep again.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>Soon I was standing in the bedroom I had when I was a teenager. Everything seemed the same as it was then: even how I felt about myself. I was on the phone to a friend. They said they couldn’t meet me, and that they’d moved on from our friendship. It happened with everyone I called, every time I said, “I’m back! Let’s meet up – I can’t wait to see you!” No one had any time for me. My parents weren’t even happy to have me home. And when I tried to remember where I’d been, my mind drew a complete blank. I lost all confidence. I went back to night-filling at Big W.</p>
<p>*</p>
<p>Every night in the jungle I had nightmares, experienced discomfort, or wallowed in general anxiety. I saw the last leg of my trip rise up over the Gulf of Mexico with the sunrise and it scared me. For the first time on the entire trip, I was waking up not knowing where I was. But no matter what had happened during the night, I got out of bed feeling OK. I like to think it was a Mayan cleanse of sorts. In the night I was sacrificing old habits and ways of thinking by facing them head on. A friend who’s into dreams once told me that if you don’t remember your dreams, you’re not ready to deal with the issues your subconscious brings up. I remembered every detail of mine as I awoke [what I’ve described here is not exactly what I dreamt – for privacy’s sake], and without much effort I could throw them into the surrounding undergrowth, rolling my eyes, and seeing them for the nasty, mythological serpents they really were.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, I also woke up to the hippies practicing bongo-drumming. But I found some consolation in the fact that putting up with the sound of this meandering percussion was going to be the worst nightmare of all.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020628.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-276" title="Hammock in the jungle... tough life" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020628.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
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		<title>Música del Viaje/Music of the Trip</title>
		<link>http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Dec 2010 23:53:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[música]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[music]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[songs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel music]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[I love travelling (although from some of these blogs you&#8217;re probably wondering if that&#8217;s entirely true) and I also love music. It&#8217;s a big part of my every day and I&#8217;m pretty sure I&#8217;m the first person ever to declare this fact. Having just perused some BEST OF 2010 lists (sometimes thinking, &#8220;a-huh! I too [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=265&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020104x.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-268" title="your blogger listening to some tunes" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020104x.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>I love travelling (although from some of these blogs you&#8217;re probably wondering if that&#8217;s entirely true) and I also love music. It&#8217;s a big part of my every day and I&#8217;m pretty sure I&#8217;m the first person <em>ever</em> to declare this fact.</p>
<p>Having just perused some BEST OF 2010 lists (sometimes thinking, &#8220;a-huh! I too enjoyed that tasty morsel&#8221;, sometimes scrolling right by some bands I&#8217;ve never even heard of &#8211; not that I follow <em>everything</em> that closely, and sometimes wondering why music critics are still overwhelmingly male&#8230; all that penis-measuring and hipster posturing can get tiresome), I thought I would create a list, not of THE BEST &#8211; coz, hey that&#8217;s subjective, right? &#8211; but of the tunes that have been keeping me company on this whirlwind (well, gentle cyclone) tour of the world I&#8217;m on (not all from this year, either).</p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Paavoharju</strong></p>
<span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/gptt6srqe_Y/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Lido Pimienta</strong></p>
<span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/5vy2IMDBbCA/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Graffiti6</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/Soz4czbKC5E/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>The xx</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/Pib8eYDSFEI/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Fuck Her, Or the Terrorists Win</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/MKxMosb1YM4/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>The Tough Alliance</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/FR30W1B-Zrs/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Laura Veirs</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/iLilpPtY2JU/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Javiera Mena</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/UQFrNuvINkw/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Torreblanca</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/caekSlTz2qU/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Janelle Monae</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/lqmORiHNtN4/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Joanna Newsom</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/STwVx6ynYjk/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Rita Indiana y los Misterios</strong></p>
<p style="text-align:left;"><strong><span style="text-align:center; display: block;"><a href="http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/musica-del-viajemusic-of-the-trip/"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/LBVLvIjBFko/2.jpg" alt="" /></a></span><br />
</strong></p>
<p>*</p>
<p>Of course there was more listened to over the past few months, but there&#8217;s just a taste. If you care. I do&#8230; so there!</p>
<p>I love how this music will be a soundtrack to fun, happy, depressing, frustrating, profound, silly times from the trip.</p>
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			<media:title type="html">your blogger listening to some tunes</media:title>
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		<title>City of Dreams</title>
		<link>http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/20/city-of-dreams/</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Dec 2010 02:17:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[altitude sickness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aztec]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[city]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[coyoacan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dream trip]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[el zinco]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[frida kahlo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[identity]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[la casa azul]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mexico]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mexico city]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mexico DF]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pulque]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[xochimilco]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[You open your eyes. You’re in a window seat of a plane. The throb of the engines follows you out of your travel-stupor, where it became the sound of a washing machine in your childhood home – you were faking being sick, lying in bed listening to weekday chores. Now you’re twenty-six again. You look [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=248&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020249.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-249" title="Frida Kahlo's band" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020249.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>You open your eyes. You’re in a window seat of a plane. The throb of the engines follows you out of your travel-stupor, where it became the sound of a washing machine in your childhood home – you were faking being sick, lying in bed listening to weekday chores. Now you’re twenty-six again. You look out the window, and as the plane lowers through cloud, the lights of millions of homes illuminate the sky. This is Mexico City (or D.F. [“de effe”] called by locals [who are known as <em>chilangos</em>]) and it is much more immense than you imagined. You think, is this the capital of the world? Do all roads lead here? It stretches out as far as you can see; an aurora of orange, red, white and blue. It’s intimidating. Below you are over 20 million people – more than your entire island continent – and they all seem to have cars: lanes of white headlights, lanes of red taillights. Moving inch by inch; they look like they&#8217;ve stopped from this altitude. In your dream, the street outside your childhood home was still: you could hear birdcalls and road works blocks away. You counted four cars drive by in an hour. And then back wheels of the plane grind into position: you’re finally here.</p>
<p>You wake up.</p>
<p>You grip onto the handlebar in the car of your <em>amiga</em> as she manoeuvres it in and out of cabs, police cars, and trucks with families propped up in the back trailer. There is no ‘zip’ procedure to merge, there is no indicating to change lanes; everything is chaos, but instead of fear, you feel exhilarated. The roads either stampede in ruler-straight lines towards distant volcanoes, or cheekily loop up and over each other like a bowl of <em>udon</em>. Some roads are two-storey high: your <em>amiga</em> laments that instead of building a more extensive public transport system, or improving the current pavement, they spent the money building up and uglifying the skyline. From the top storey of these roads, you can see the dome of smog blanketing the metropolis, tucked in at the edges of a vast valley. Your head is spinning, but they tell you it’s altitude sickness – Mexico City is one of the highest cities in the world. Your <em>amiga</em> beeps the horn as a Mercedes almost sideswipes the car into a street vendor.</p>
<p>It’s night time: you want to open your eyes wider – to see it all.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020381.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-252" title="Chilli!" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020381.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>The glary, warm white sky invites you outside. You pass <em>taquerias</em> where you see maize flour dough squeezed and flattened into the staple of the national cuisine, <em>tortillas</em>; flat bread bursting with a corn flavour you’ve never tasted before in the horrible imitations available at home. You want to sample it all: every colour, every flavour available. You go to markets where there are bags of red, purple, and green dried chillies, next to bags of black, blue, and white rice, next to bags of <em>Whiskas</em>. You go to markets strewn with <em>piñatas</em> and <em>alebrijes</em> (bead art), hammocks, hats, <em>Dia de los muertos</em> (Day of the Dead) and Christmas decorations, including white baby Jesuses and black baby Jesuses, and baby Jesus dressed up as a doctor. The colours and patterns are your style: bright, garish, beautiful, particular and expressive. Your favourites, blue and orange, are everywhere. You go to Frida Kahlo’s house and like one of Rivera’s (<em>La quebrada</em>) the best, and then the lights go out, and the gardens inspire some creative photography using a bronzed mirror while you wait for the lights to come back on. The Mexican museum workers have a laugh, &lt;&lt;<em>no pasa nada&gt;&gt;</em>, and watch visitors, like you, chase a cat behind a pyramid.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020375.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-253" title="El fuente de los coyotes" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020375.jpg?w=225&#038;h=300" alt="" width="225" height="300" /></a></p>
<p>Your friends from different parts of your life are here. They’re out of context. You gaze at their faces and are filled with wonder at how they kept on living outside of your sphere; lives lived and lives met in front of <em>el fuente de los coyotes</em>, and lives soon to leave and travel on a different road. They’re from home, but it’s not theirs any more. They meet your friends – your <em>amiga</em> and her <em>novio</em> (boyfriend) and her <em>compañera de casa</em> (housemate) – your friends from this sphere, this part of your <em>viaje</em> (trip). You start speaking both languages. <em>Español </em>to the Mexicans, English to the Australians, Spanglish when it gets too hard, or when you forget. You remember the film, <em>The Science of Sleep</em>, with Mexican actor Gael Garcia Bernal complaining that when his boss switches from French to English it makes him feel schizophrenic. You feel overwhelmed, but healthy. You try to make mistakes; the mistakes you always tell your students to make. You sometimes make the mistake of not making mistakes. Now you go crazy. But your friends are here: you smile. You’re here.</p>
<p>You sleep well.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020328.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-250" title="Xochimilco" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020328.jpg?w=225&#038;h=300" alt="" width="225" height="300" /></a></p>
<p>You have trouble pronouncing the long Mexican names for places. The letters scramble together and the sounds garble out of your mouth; you murmur the last syllable in defeat. You learn you can remember how <em>Xochimilco</em> sounds like Chokky Milk-o, though the ‘x’ is more of a ‘z’ than ‘ch’. You&#8217;re there, on a <em>trajinera</em> (barge), channelling ancient canals, watching birds and dogs, and teenagers on other barges, celebrating birthdays, mariachi bands, and people kneeling in front of shrines to the Virgin of Guadalupe, rearranging flowers (like the big, dragon-like <em><a href="http://www.tenerife-information-centre.com/images/poinsettia.jpg" target="_blank">nochebuena</a></em>) and figurines of Caucasian Arab kings. The Virgin’s birthday is next week, and you’re told she was a pre-Hispanic goddess co-opted by the Catholics and turned into Mexico’s most beloved and exalted celibate. Her shrines are everywhere – the abundance of small ritual reminds you of Japan. In fact, you feel a weird affinity with both countries and start pondering a future where your life is split between the two. You are then taken to a <em>pulqueria</em>, a bar that sells a Mexican speciality, <em>pulque</em>, a drink made from Cactus juice, a slimy drink that continues fermenting inside you after you drink it. After two, you crave chocolate milk, or something less intense.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020359.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-251" title="Pulque" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020359.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>You sleep badly.</p>
<p>Dehydration.</p>
<p>Trips to the bathroom.</p>
<p>You stop drinking.</p>
<p>The night at <em>El Zinco</em> – an exclusive jazz club in <em>el centro</em> of D.F. A night you looked forward to most. You see three of your favourite Mexican musicians, and meet two of them. You daydreamed about at least hearing them on the radio, but now you&#8217;ve actually met them. You’re here and you drink in the experience, sipping it carefully, lest you spill the moment.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020394.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-254" title="El Zinco" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020394.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>Next moment you find yourself on top of the Pyramid of the Sun at <em>Teotihuacan</em>, staring down at the steep steps, then out across to the Pyramid of the Moon, smaller and prettier. <em>Teotihuacan</em> has unknown origins, some claiming it was a mixed ethnic state, but at the time of its zenith it was one of the largest cities in the world – much like its present day descendant. You love the remnants of murals featuring the feathered serpent, <em>Quetzalcoatl</em>, and the rain god, <em>Tlaloc</em>, and jaguars, and shells, and convoluted ideas of the shape of the world. You imagine the site as it used to be – painted white and red, glary in the sunlight, mighty and beautiful. You wonder why we think of ancient cultures as exotic, and long to be zapped back in time to spend one boring day along the Avenue of the Dead. You curse the Eurocentric history you were fed: here lay a great civilization like China and Egypt – all human ingenuity scattered like seeds across all continents. You thank your lucky stars to be here with your <em>amiga</em> and her <em>amiga</em> – both restorative artists, who help you decipher the history of the place and share the mysteries of their Aztec past.</p>
<p>You feel empty without your own. At least none attached to place.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020424.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-255" title="Teotihuacan" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020424.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>You always dreamed of coming to Mexico. This is your blue and orange fantasy.</p>
<p>You wake up again. You’re still here. It’s just as you imagined. It’s just the way it was before you fell asleep&#8230;</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020458.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-256" title="Sweep says goodbye to DF" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020458.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
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		<title>Not Quite Atlanta</title>
		<link>http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/not-quite-atlanta/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Dec 2010 00:08:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>An Odd Geography</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[airport hotel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[atlanta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[exploring]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hotel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[identity]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel plans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[writing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anoddgeography.wordpress.com/?p=233</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I sat on my bed in New Orleans, staring at my lap top, fretting over my financial situation: how was I going to afford another two months of this trip? I sat there, annoyed with my own bloody mindedness. Six months, I’d planned. Six months&#8230; Would I do it? There’s a nagging dialogue in my [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=anoddgeography.wordpress.com&amp;blog=14406844&amp;post=233&amp;subd=anoddgeography&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020231.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-237" title="Amtrak (New Orleans to Atlanta)" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020231.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>I sat on my bed in New Orleans, staring at my lap top, fretting over my financial situation: how was I going to afford another two months of this trip? I sat there, annoyed with my own bloody mindedness. Six months, I’d planned. Six months&#8230; Would I do it?</p>
<p>There’s a nagging dialogue in my head; it’s a conversation between me and a person with raised eyebrows, and a holier-than-thou scowl on their face. It could be me. Or it could be those that I put on pedestals when I was younger and more impressionable: those that I deemed ‘cooler’ than me. They&#8217;d left the country after high school and weren&#8217;t seen again for years. I subscribed to the idea of leaving one’s hometown for long periods of time; I daydreamed of being that person, returning much more windswept and interesting, commenting on all the substantial changes that had taken place in my absence, posturing with a far-off look, remembering that one time in the Sahara when I had to milk my camel to feed the pillaged settlement’s remaining, starving children. The conversation goes something like this:</p>
<p>“You came home early?” they ask me, eyebrows disappearing into their hairline.</p>
<p>“I know.” I look at my shoes, the corners of my mouth trying to reach them. “I couldn’t hack it.”</p>
<p>“You couldn’t hack it,” they say. “You weren’t doing it right.  You should’ve been sailing with a crew of marine biologists trying to find the near-extinct, golden-cloaca porpoise. Why didn’t you prolong your stay in the slums of Calcutta and build an orphanage? You call climbing that mountain an adventure? You were still a Chrysler building length below base-camp, you truly pathetic excuse for a ‘traveller’.”</p>
<p>“I went to supermarkets and tried new things?” I plead.</p>
<p>Their expression changes from derision to pity. I try to picture myself in a fedora riding a horse towards the sunset, but I remember that horses make me sneeze uncontrollably, so the scene changes to me standing in a hot shower for twenty minutes using all the boutique soaps the hotel has on offer.</p>
<p>It’s a shameful epilogue to the romanticised version of travelling the world. It’s also an immature way to conduct oneself – always doing what you think others expect of you. No one is going to judge me on how I spend time overseas – only myself.</p>
<p>I’m glad I can intercept this dialogue with that gem of wisdom.</p>
<p>So I did what I wanted: I emailed my travel agent and my friend Renee, adjusting my trip to be shorter and to get to Mexico sooner. The next step was to find a cheap way to get to Mexico, and to allow Renee enough time to organise her life around me. The answer: take Amtrak to Atlanta from New Orleans, and stay there for a few nights before flying to Mexico City.</p>
<p>I booked three nights in a hotel near the airport in Atlanta (the busiest airport in the world – passenger-based), through a hot deal on the net which gave me a large room with bathroom and fridge, microwave, and coffee maker &#8211; luxury time alone. From my room I could see nearly every fast-food and hotel chain ever invented along the motorway, but luckily the suburban sprawl of the city crept up to the hotel on the other side, which meant there&#8217;d be a supermarket somewhere nearby offering more than eleven herbs and spices.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020232.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-234" title="Atlanta Airport - view from hotel" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020232.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>*</p>
<p>Atlanta is probably most famous to Australians for having hosted the 1996 Olympic Games (I know, I’d never heard of it before then, either), but it’s a substantial city – by which I mean it’s a huge metropolis of 5.4 million people – the second biggest city in what is generally known as The South, or south-eastern United States. It has an aquarium, the World of Coca-Cola, a Civil War Museum, and an enormous shopping centre underneath downtown, called Underground Atlanta. And I saw none of these things.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020234.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-236" title="View from hotel... all the junk food you could handle" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020234.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
<p>My new friends in New Orleans had hooked me up with a friend of theirs in Atlanta, but I just didn’t have the energy or inclination to charm a stranger. And I was also feeling pretty good now I had Mexico in near-sight, so I decided to stay in the hotel and use the private and luxurious space to write.</p>
<p>I had a great time.</p>
<p>My days consisted of buying food, eating, writing, and watching TV, showering, going for small walks, and sleeping. I watched the planes take-off and land, and caved in to trying new fast-food chains. I delighted in post-mix Dr. Pepper and Mountain Dew (not the taste, but the novelty), and even the curly fries. On the first day of writing, I took the stress of finding decent meals (and thus breaking my concentration) to a new level by buying two foot-long sandwiches (with all salads) and storing them in my fridge for meal times. I used the coffee maker in my room as much as I could; never quite figuring out how it made the water so hot, so quickly.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020233-e1292025957971.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-235" title="More junk?" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020233-e1292025957971.jpg?w=225&#038;h=300" alt="" width="225" height="300" /></a></p>
<p>I chuckled to myself a lot. Here I was, in a brand, new place, and I was listening to my desire to flip the bird at it. It was nothing personal; I just couldn’t give a good-God-damn. I guess I felt powerful in a way. I had conquered that supercilious voice, and the anxious reply: I was still travelling, but now more spontaneously, with burning curiosity lighting the way. Now, the trip was no longer “shopping for a new place to live” but a trip to see what I desperately wanted to see. I wasn’t homesick, but travelling without that curiosity was draining and almost worthless, so going home early seemed like the most rational thing to do.</p>
<p>It was with a renewed sense of purpose that I boarded my plane for Mexico City. I’ve been dreaming of Mexico for most of my life. It’s strange how I’ve gone to other places first, but finally I was on my way. Having spent a few days anti-travelling, I was ready for the next adventure &#8211; and I felt OK doing it <em>my</em> way.</p>
<p><a href="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020112.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-238" title="When bored, take photos in the bathroom mirror" src="http://anoddgeography.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020112.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a></p>
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			<media:title type="html">Amtrak (New Orleans to Atlanta)</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">View from hotel... all the junk food you could handle</media:title>
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			<media:title type="html">When bored, take photos in the bathroom mirror</media:title>
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